Animal Care Associates, Inc
840 Oakwood Road
Charleston, WV 25314
304-344-2244

Choosing a Pet Snake & Snake Environment
      

Selecting a pet snake
The most common snakes kept by enthusiasts are the many and varied constrictor species (boas, pythons, rat and milk snakes, etc.), and the racer, gopher and garter species.  The husbandry and dietary requirements for these types of snakes vary considerably.  Furthermore, some of the same species (notably the boa constrictors and pythons) reach very large sizes in captivity, and their considerable space requirements must be anticipated.

Before you acquire a snake, you should carefully consider the following recommendations:

• Research the major husbandry requirements of the snake and determine whether or not you can successfully meet them now and in the future.  Husbandry requirements include diet, environment (living space, temperature, humidity, lighting, etc.) and sanitation considerations.
• Research the environmental temperature of the species.  Temperatures vary among species and among individuals of the same species.
• Select a snake that can feed without difficulty and one that is eating regularly
• Select a snake that appears healthy in all respects.
• Avoid selecting a snake belonging to a species that is notoriously difficult to keep in captivity, requires difficult or elaborate environmental setups, or spends most of its time hiding or burrowed underground.

The Environment

Enclosure & Space Requirements

As a general rule, snakes require relatively little space because of their limited and non-exertional activity.  The size of the enclosure should allow space for certain required items, and still allow the snake adequate space to stretch out and move about.  Snakes will use both the horizontal and vertical space within their enclosure if provisions are made for this activity.

Aquariums or other similar glass or plexiglass lined enclosures are usually most suitable because they allow for visualization of and safety for the pet.  They also help maintain desirable environmental temperatures and generally high humidity levels.  Wire lined enclosures do not usually allow you to maintain desirable temperatures and humidity levels.  Furthermore, such enclosures can promote injuries to the rostrum (nose and surrounding tissues) as snakes may repeatedly attempt to "escape" through the wire mesh.

Any enclosure used should have a secure top and be escape-proof.  All hinges and locks should be secure.  All snakes are potential "escape artists" and many can escape from what appears to be a secure enclosure.

Floor Covering & Enclosure Items

Unprinted newspaper, butcher paper, paper towels, terrycloth towels, and indoor-outdoor carpeting are the most suitable materials for covering the bottom of a snakes enclosure.  If indoor-outdoor carpeting is used, it is best to have 2-3 pieces cut to the correct dimensions.  This way, replacements can be used while the soiled piece is cleaned and disinfected.

We do NOT recommend pea gravel, kitty litter, crushed corncob material or wood shavings be used.  These are unquestionably more pleasing to look at than most of the materials mentioned above; however, they are unsuitable because they trap moisture and feces, providing a place for external and internal parasites to hide.  Furthermore, these types of bedding are easily and inadvertently eaten while the snake is feeding.  This can cause injury to or obstruction of the digestive tract.

Various objects should be included in a snake's enclosure .  These include sturdy  hardwood or fabricated branches, driftwood, grapevine, hanging rope, and shelves or hammocks.

Visual Security

It is very important to provide some privacy for a captive snake.  Many snakes will not feed without the privacy of some degree of visual security.  This can be accomplished by providing a "hide box" or strategic placement of silk artificial plants (or trees if the enclosure is large enough). Silk plants are visually pleasing and easy to clean and disinfect.  They require minimal maintenance, help to increase the humidity level if the foliage is frequently misted, and can complement a snake's ability to camouflage itself, thereby providing visual security.

Climatic Considerations

Tropical snakes kept in captivity (boa constrictors, pythons, etc.) require relatively warm temperatures and high humidity.  Daytime temperatures should range between 80° F and 85° F.  Nighttime temperatures can fall between 70-75° F without creating problems for most snakes. Native American snakes do well when maintained at 70-80° F.

Large enclosures can be maintained with heat lamps or heaters equipped with thermostats, whereas small enclosures may be adequately heated by placing a heating pad directly underneath them.  Exposed heat sources must be shielded to protect snakes from serious burns as they attempt to warm themselves by coiling next to them.

Large and small enclosures should also provide the snake a focal (spot) source of warmth.  This warmth increases activity and rate of digestion.
The heat sources should be checked frequently for malfunction.  Your snake should also be checked periodically for evidence of burns because they generally do not move away from a heat-generating source even if they are severely burned.
 
 

Lighting

Ideally, captive reptiles should be housed in such a way that they can be exposed to and benefit from direct, unfiltered sunlight during the day.  Unfortunately, this is not always practical or possible.  The next best solution is to use an artificial  ultraviolet light source rather than fluorescent or incandescent light bulbs.  One or more full spectrum lights such as Vitalites should be used during the daylight hours.  We recommend 10-12 hours of daylight and 12-14 hours of darkness, with a gradual increase in the number of hours of light in the spring and a decrease in the fall and winter months.
 

Water

Water should be provided at all times as most snakes drink frequently. A suitably sized container should also be provided so the snake can swim and soak.  The container should be heavy enough so that it cannot be easily overturned.  All water bowls should be regularly cleaned and disinfected with hot soapy water at least once every 2-4 weeks.  Failure to do so encourages bacterial overgrowth and can cause the snake to become ill.

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